Randall M
Dedicated Member
Almost done with the shoulder belt mount/installation.
1/4-inch 6061-T6 plates, 1-inch dia. 6061-T6 bar.
1/4-inch 6061-T6 plates, 1-inch dia. 6061-T6 bar.
1998 Z3 1.9l Autocross Build
- Thread starter Randall M
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- 1998 autocross davis ca usa z3 1.9
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Curious about the context of this comment?
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Done with race belts....autocross this weekend.
Not to post links, but it was found on a thread on zroadster.net:
.
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Friday, the Z gets new shoes for next season.
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Stock shocks and springs for now. Konis sometime next year. I have to use stock springs to stay in E Stock. Will add a 28mm front bar soon.
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Randall M
Dedicated Member
New shoes.....yummmm!
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS 225/45R17
Old Contis
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS 225/45R17
Old Contis
Randall M
Dedicated Member
https://docs.google.com/videos/d/1oX-94ZlzfW1OxqKbOzJjDOTkYJ3trSWDfaAaT2DdBQg/edit?usp=drivesdk
Video of Nov 1 Thunderhill autocross. Run 6, fastest time of the day.
Video of Nov 1 Thunderhill autocross. Run 6, fastest time of the day.
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Fog lamp delete....
Widely believed to be, often reposted as, but it's not really.
The hoops are ok-ish, there's a reinforcing strake runs up the middle, but the mountings are p*** poor, the inner mount would rip out quite easily, especially since the bars have a kink in them that just increases the leverage on the mount. Biggest problem is, they're too low, barely above the seat, utterly useless for even a small person wearing a helmet, never mind an average person without. All they'll do is make it easy for Rescue to remove your broken necked corpse instead of a mushy mess.
Oh, and the statements on Forums "the seats are reinforced to protect in the event of a rollover" are Bullshit too. I've stripped them down. They're absolutely, definitively, NOT.
"Video of Nov 1 Thunderhill autocross. Run 6, fastest time of the day. "
Nice.
Looks like you have quite a bit of understeer though. The thicker front arb you have, that is actually likely to increase understeer.
Depending on what your Regs say, assuming no spring, or adjustable top mount changes allowed;
You can get front -ve camber by adding hard washers to the lower strut mounts with correspondingly longer 10.9 bolts.
Add another spring pad to the rear springs, increases the rear roll center which helps turn in. Even 5-6mm, or 1/4" in old money makes a difference you can feel.
The front 'X' brace isn't really up to much. Making a custom to the car brace, really stiffens the front end.
Add a stiffer rear arb, I think there are two thicker bars from 2.8/3.0 and M versions. The rear mounting points can also be stiffened by welding, as can the mounts on the the swing arms.
'Heavy Duty' front arb mounts some speed shops sell are actually Ford Mondeo links at 5x the price.
Rear arb mounts can be made 'Heavy Duty', I think you guy's call them Zero Lash, by replacing the rubber with a ball joint. If you're allowed a spherical on the arb, the rear is a 12mm, hold it on with a Star washer, or Circlip.
New rear beam bushes make a big difference. If Poly is not allowed, filling the void with polyurethane adhesive, or even epoxy resin, will firm them up.
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Coming soon...
Randall M
Dedicated Member
And this....
Randall M
Dedicated Member
Got the rears in place....
