Hand brake rattling

Nuieve

Regular Member
American Zeds
Joined
Jun 9, 2026
Points
13
Location
Spokane WA
Model of Z
A green one with a big engine
I did a search but missed the answer if there was one.

My handbrake rattles in the back over rough road (pretty much non stop) If I pull it up high enough for the light to come on while driving the rattle goes away completely.

I wonder if there’s a dummy tutorial out there.

I can’t find anything useful on YouTube, only an article on Pelican parts website with a few pictures that kind of give an idea but some user questions there about number of clicks make me a bit concerned and someone screwed something up so I’m a bit worried that I will do too

I never worked on a car, but I do know how to take a wheel off, that’s about the extent of my mechanical expertise
 
The rear brakes are disk but the hand brake is separate pads hidden inside where you can't see it. There's a metal backing plate that gets rusty. The hand brake pads are held onto that backing plate by two pins, one on each pad. The pins rust too and disappear allowing the pads to rattle on the backing plate.

You need to take the main brake caliper off and remove the disk to see the hand brake pads and how the fix to that backing plate. Should be lots of pictures online though
 
Thank you. Sounds like a medium complexity job. I was hoping for something simple a dummy can do such as taking the boot out or removing the wheel and adjusting that calibration star thing.

Looks like I may have to take it to the shop.
 
Actually its not that complex. I'd say it's one of the easier jobs that will give you a lot of satisfaction. On the other hand messing with brakes needs to be taken seriously.

If taking it to 'the shop' it shouldn't be too expensive because that back axle is just bog standard 3 series that any quik fit fitter should be able to fix quik provided they're not rip off merchants

But don't rush. Watch the forum a while. Somebody else might chip in with better advise.
 
I had exactly the same issue after I did an overhaul on the rear suspension. I found it was a case of taking up the handbrake. The handbrake actuator, which sits in between the shoes was so loose it was rattling. Taking up the slack solved the problem!
 
Thank you. Sounds like a medium complexity job. I was hoping for something simple a dummy can do such as taking the boot out or removing the wheel and adjusting that calibration star thing.

Looks like I may have to take it to the shop.
It’s actually not that difficult.
Tools required, socket set and Allen/Hex bits.
Loosen the wheel bolts.
Jack the car and place an axle stand.
Take off the wheel.
Locate the disc lock stud, fit in an Allen bit, smack it with a hammer to help loosen it, then unscrew. Place it with the wheel bolts.
Insert a screwdriver/lever between the disc hat and anti rattle clip. Press the center of the clip and it’ll release. Put it with the wheel bolts.
Pull off the plastic plugs on the caliper sliders, insert an Allen bit and remove. Place somewhere clean.
IMPORTANT. CLEAN YOUR HANDS OR CHANGE GLOVES. The sliders should be lubricated with silicone grease, you don’t want that stuff anywhere near the friction parts of your brakes.
Remove the caliper and tie it up out of the way.
Use a socket and breaker bar to undo the carrier bolts. Place both with the wheel bolts..
Chock a front wheel and make sure the handbrake is off.
Hit the center of the disc, the hat, with an impact hammer/ rubber or plastic hammer, to shock it loose. Hold the disc 180degrees apart and wiggle it free. If someone has set the disc/shoe clearance too tight, it may be slightly lipped, in which case you’ll have to back off the adjuster.
The two shoes are held by an Allen clip and spring. The clip often pulls through the backplate. The simple fix consists of two stainless washers, a nyloc nut and a stainless bolt, or set screw.
The nyloc nut and one washer, goes behind the disc. Reuse the spring, with the washer and bolt, to hold the shoe in the correct place. Do NOT tighten it fully, there needs to be some play. The nyloc nut prevents it loosening and the spring holds the shoe flush to the backplate.
Ensure the adjuster moves freely. Do not oil, or grease it, both clog with dirt and jam it.
Refit the disc and add its lock screw.
Tighten the adjuster fully until the disc won’t move.
Back it off two clicks, ensure the disc rotates without binding, if it binds, back it one more click. It can help to pull the handbrake on/off several times to center the shoes.
Clean the bolt threads and refit the carrier, a little copper, or aluminium, grease on the threads if you have it.
Refit the caliper. If the sliders are dirty, clean and polish them. Do not sand them, wire brush, or blast them clean. They’re stainless steel, polish them. Smear a little silicone grease on the sliders if you have it. Do NOT use copper grease, it is not a lubricant, it absorbs water and dries out. Replace the plastic plugs.
Refit the anti rattle clip, put the outer flats against the carrier, compress the center and the two lock clips slide in.
Check the disc locating Allen screws is tight.
Refit the wheel, tighten and do the same on the other side.
There are YouTube videos on how to replace the shoes, but if just replacing the clips with bolts, you don’t actually have to remove the shoes.
 
Thank you. Will give it a try this weekend. Will get the car up and see how far I can go with this.
 
Nothing was rattling when we took the wheel off and inspected the whole assembly, cable seemed tight and at first we were thinking it wasn't a problem. Still, went ahead and retightened it anyway and the rattle did go away.
 
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