I’ll unbolt the seats and check 
Bognor Lean-to Project
- Thread starter Mazza
- Start date
Had a few hours this morning to work on the car…. some good bits, some not so good 
First the seat belt / balloon light that was on …
undid the passenger seat and found the little white connector was not in properly.
(this is an old picture but shows the connector )
Plugged it in and sorted the light showing on the dash.
(As you said Mark ,
@Althulas)
However , after clearing that, two lights that were not showing yesterday have decided to light up
I know about the engine management light on the left, but it is the two on the right
and the code
Cant understand as not showing up yesterday ….
Couldn’t even get them to go off when the code was cleared???
Yesterday the brake lights were intermittent when pushing the brake so ordered a new switch last night…. Today …. works perfectly !!!!
Went round all the lights and put the interior and boot bulbs back in … and apart from one rear fog light bulb ( which was replaced ) everything now working.
Screwed in the brass T bar on the roof reservoir in the boot and tested the electric roof … works ok. Which was a relief after I refitted it all
Even drove it out onto the driveway ( about 15ft..
)
I was so tempted to run it round the block but with no Tax , MoT or Insurance I thought better of it ….
First the seat belt / balloon light that was on …
undid the passenger seat and found the little white connector was not in properly.
(this is an old picture but shows the connector )
Plugged it in and sorted the light showing on the dash.
(As you said Mark ,
@Althulas)However , after clearing that, two lights that were not showing yesterday have decided to light up
I know about the engine management light on the left, but it is the two on the right
and the code
Cant understand as not showing up yesterday ….
Couldn’t even get them to go off when the code was cleared???
Yesterday the brake lights were intermittent when pushing the brake so ordered a new switch last night…. Today …. works perfectly !!!!
Went round all the lights and put the interior and boot bulbs back in … and apart from one rear fog light bulb ( which was replaced ) everything now working.
Screwed in the brass T bar on the roof reservoir in the boot and tested the electric roof … works ok. Which was a relief after I refitted it all
Even drove it out onto the driveway ( about 15ft..
)I was so tempted to run it round the block but with no Tax , MoT or Insurance I thought better of it ….
Last edited:
Those ABS codes will likely reset after 100 yrds down the road.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
If they don't reset when you can give it a drive jack the car up and plug the Creator in and view the wheel speed sensors whilst you spin each wheel to see if they are working. Clear the codes as well using the Creator.
All the wheel sensors are new but it could be that the connectors on the car are dirty and need a clean ????
Cant take it round the block … although tempted …. but could jack the rear end up and with the engine running put it in first and run it slowly …
Cant take it round the block … although tempted
…. but could jack the rear end up and with the engine running put it in first and run it slowly …
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
Do check the connectors and give them a spray with electrical cleaner, I did have a car that set a code after putting a new sensor in and just disconnecting it and then plugging it back in sorted that. Running it whilst jacked up may clear it if it is a rear but won't if its a front obviously.
It seems like one step forward two steps back at the moment, so had a break from it all to work out where I am with it…..
I disconnected the cat sensor connectors and cleaned them and the engine management light went out…so thought that was the problem solved…….but no …. as the light came back on the following day???? But no fault codes showed up???
I still have the two lights (ABS ones ) showing on the dash and the codes still saying Sensors and ABS pump…..
I took it round the block ( late one evening ) and found the brakes not good even though they have been bled 3 times.
and the latest issue , is that the starter motor just clicks and doesn't now start the car. There had been issues with this previously but I thought it was the battery, but the battery is now 100% charged and the starter still clicks…..
So I need to check the connections including any earth wires to ensure they are all clean and tight, but if no issues then I suppose it will be starter motor out….. never done it before and it looks a nightmare to get it out 
Once all these issues are sorted out then my to do list is not much….
Put the glass back in the wing mirrors ( safer to leave them off while working in the garage )
Put the radio back in
Fill the washer bottle and check for leaks
check headlight alignment ( all the lights on the car working as they should now , and I have a new brake pedal switch just in case I need to swap it over)
Need to get the tracking checked ( Get this done when it goes for the MoT)
Put the new wheel nut covers on
I also have a list of things that will be done after a month or two on the road.
Swap over the radiator ( doesnt leak but has been hit but the fan at some point in its life)
Replace thermostat and waterpump ( no idea when these were last done)
Flush the engine and replace the antifreeze
Replace the oil and filter ( currently has new oil but not high quality)
Vanos. ( might go to Basingstoke for this)
I disconnected the cat sensor connectors and cleaned them and the engine management light went out…so thought that was the problem solved…….but no …. as the light came back on the following day???? But no fault codes showed up???
I still have the two lights (ABS ones ) showing on the dash and the codes still saying Sensors and ABS pump…..
I took it round the block ( late one evening
) and found the brakes not good even though they have been bled 3 times.and the latest issue , is that the starter motor just clicks and doesn't now start the car. There had been issues with this previously but I thought it was the battery, but the battery is now 100% charged and the starter still clicks…..
So I need to check the connections including any earth wires to ensure they are all clean and tight, but if no issues then I suppose it will be starter motor out…..
never done it before and it looks a nightmare to get it out Once all these issues are sorted out then my to do list is not much….
Put the glass back in the wing mirrors ( safer to leave them off while working in the garage )
Put the radio back in
Fill the washer bottle and check for leaks
check headlight alignment ( all the lights on the car working as they should now , and I have a new brake pedal switch just in case I need to swap it over)
Need to get the tracking checked ( Get this done when it goes for the MoT)
Put the new wheel nut covers on
I also have a list of things that will be done after a month or two on the road.
Swap over the radiator ( doesnt leak but has been hit but the fan at some point in its life)
Replace thermostat and waterpump ( no idea when these were last done)
Flush the engine and replace the antifreeze
Replace the oil and filter ( currently has new oil but not high quality)
Vanos. ( might go to Basingstoke for this
)
Did a bit today….. rear wheels off and cleaned the sensor connections..
also took the top cover off the engine and cleaned the O2 sensor connectors again.
cleared the codes and some lights went out ….. and ran it again and no fault found came up …. So nearly there
but as I cant start the engine not sure if completely resolved….
On that subject… read up on Starter Removal in Bentleys …… and says its removed from underneath….
so had a look on Youtube and every one was removed from the top ( taking the inlet manifold off )
So a couple of texts to @Lee to get info on this as never done it….. I’ve seen it done at Zedshed HQ … only wish I had paid more attention
Then as the rusty cogs in my brain were trying to make sense of all this info, I had one of those moments which seemed to be a good idea but not sure if I was just being an idiot……
I have two Zeds so why not just swap the batteries over and see what happens…….
so I did ( even though they are different size batteries) …..Took the one from the 1.9, stuck it in the 2.8 and the car started straight away….
put the 2.8 one in the 1.9 …… CLICK !!!!!!!
So the issue appears to be the battery and not the starter motor, which is quite a relief.
The battery is now back at the Motor Factors [ under its 2 year warranty ) and my mate, who works there, will charge it tomorrow and then test it over the next couple of days to see if it loses its charge.
Assuming that there is nothing on the car draining it, I am hoping this will identify as being the issue. Then they will just replace it.
The issue with the brakes is also sorted ( or will be soon), as I have found a mobile mechanic that has the software to do an ABS PUMP cycle bleed.
Wont be till after Christmas but will only take about 2 hours and cost £100….I will have to get a big can of brake fluid as it does use quite a lot.
also took the top cover off the engine and cleaned the O2 sensor connectors again.
cleared the codes and some lights went out ….. and ran it again and no fault found came up …. So nearly there
but as I cant start the engine not sure if completely resolved….
On that subject… read up on Starter Removal in Bentleys …… and says its removed from underneath….
so had a look on Youtube and every one was removed from the top ( taking the inlet manifold off
)So a couple of texts to @Lee to get info on this as never done it….. I’ve seen it done at Zedshed HQ … only wish I had paid more attention
Then as the rusty cogs in my brain were trying to make sense of all this info, I had one of those moments which seemed to be a good idea but not sure if I was just being an idiot……
I have two Zeds so why not just swap the batteries over and see what happens…….
so I did ( even though they are different size batteries) …..Took the one from the 1.9, stuck it in the 2.8 and the car started straight away….
put the 2.8 one in the 1.9 …… CLICK !!!!!!!
So the issue appears to be the battery and not the starter motor, which is quite a relief.
The battery is now back at the Motor Factors [ under its 2 year warranty ) and my mate, who works there, will charge it tomorrow and then test it over the next couple of days to see if it loses its charge.
Assuming that there is nothing on the car draining it
, I am hoping this will identify as being the issue. Then they will just replace it.The issue with the brakes is also sorted ( or will be soon), as I have found a mobile mechanic that has the software to do an ABS PUMP cycle bleed.
Wont be till after Christmas but will only take about 2 hours and cost £100….I will have to get a big can of brake fluid as it does use quite a lot.
Had a call from the Motor Factors today …after fully charging the battery, they left it for a about 36 hours…
.and its ideal….. to be used as an Anchor !!!!
Just picked up a replacement under warranty, so will get it back on it in the morning and run the car to see if I can kill off the remainder of the dash lights.
.and its ideal….. to be used as an Anchor !!!!
Just picked up a replacement under warranty
, so will get it back on it in the morning and run the car to see if I can kill off the remainder of the dash lights.
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One thing I forgot to mention……
The other day I looked at the spare key and noticed how bad the rubber mat was …… so looked on line and found that replacements were available….so ordered 2 for less than £7
Took the spare apart and these are the bits
What I was surprised to find was a small IC chip ( top left) that just sits in the fob. No power source so I am assuming this is something to do with the immobilser
For anyone with an electronics background ..its a Philips PCF7930AS
I took the 3v battery cell out (Panasonic CR2016) and cleaned it and surprise surprise, it worked, and the red indicator light on the pcb flashed.
In the six years () I have had this car …. I have only ever used the metal key part to unlock the doors when I leant on the push button on the top of the door and locked it.
so armed with just the pcb part of the key I tried it on the car and was surprised that I had remote locking ….
but also found that one of the buttons worked an alarm…… and the little red light that used to sit at the front of the centre console , but now sitting at the back , ( I swapped it over with the roof switch when I had everything apart) ….. started to flash and thats the first time I’ve ever seen it do anything.
When I put the new battery in tomorrow, I will probably find that the alarm will go off and I cant turn the bloody thing off
The other day I looked at the spare key and noticed how bad the rubber mat was …… so looked on line and found that replacements were available….so ordered 2 for less than £7
Took the spare apart and these are the bits
What I was surprised to find was a small IC chip ( top left) that just sits in the fob. No power source so I am assuming this is something to do with the immobilser
For anyone with an electronics background ..its a Philips PCF7930AS
I took the 3v battery cell out (Panasonic CR2016) and cleaned it and surprise surprise, it worked, and the red indicator light on the pcb flashed.
In the six years (
) I have had this car …. I have only ever used the metal key part to unlock the doors when I leant on the push button on the top of the door and locked it.so armed with just the pcb part of the key I tried it on the car and was surprised that I had remote locking ….
but also found that one of the buttons worked an alarm…… and the little red light that used to sit at the front of the centre console , but now sitting at the back , ( I swapped it over with the roof switch when I had everything apart) ….. started to flash and thats the first time I’ve ever seen it do anything.
When I put the new battery in tomorrow, I will probably find that the alarm will go off and I cant turn the bloody thing off
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2012
- Points
- 178
- Location
- Newport, South Wales,UK
- Model of Z
- Z3 M43 1.8 (1999) and Z4 E85 2.0i (2007)
The little black chip is the transponder for the immobiliser system it is coded to the EWS module to allow the starter to be released when the correct key is used in the ignition barrel. It requires no power the battery in the key only powers the locking functions. The chip transponder is read by the arial around the ignition barrel the battery in the fob for central locking is charged the same way when the key is in use in the barrel.
This morning I put the new battery in … started first time 
Then put a few bits back … the glass for the wing mirrors ( with a bit of grease !!!! ) , the radio, the cargo net in the passenger footwell. and Filled the washer bottle ( no leaks
)
Thought of Tony this morning as I dont have a ‘Roadster’ transfer for the top brake light 🥲
Then the Postie arrived with my replacement key fob mats
Didn’t take long to swap them over ( after a bit of a mod to allow the ic chip to sit correctly )
Both keys work fine ….
After finding a German/Japanese Specialist garage about 1/2 a mile from my house, The car will now be going in for the ABS pump bleed , check and clear all or any fault codes, Headlight Adjustment , Tracking and MOT the first week of January.
Then put a few bits back … the glass for the wing mirrors ( with a bit of grease !!!! ) , the radio, the cargo net in the passenger footwell. and Filled the washer bottle ( no leaks
)Thought of Tony this morning as I dont have a ‘Roadster’ transfer for the top brake light 🥲
Then the Postie arrived with my replacement key fob mats
Didn’t take long to swap them over ( after a bit of a mod to allow the ic chip to sit correctly )
Both keys work fine ….
After finding a German/Japanese Specialist garage about 1/2 a mile from my house, The car will now be going in for the ABS pump bleed , check and clear all or any fault codes, Headlight Adjustment , Tracking and MOT the first week of January.
“and what it had failed its MOT on didnt seem too daunting....”
Where did you buy the replacement key fibs?This morning I put the new battery in … started first time
Then put a few bits back … the glass for the wing mirrors ( with a bit of grease !!!! ) , the radio, the cargo net in the passenger footwell. and Filled the washer bottle ( no leaks
Thought of Tony this morning as I dont have a ‘Roadster’ transfer for the top brake light 🥲
Then the Postie arrived with my replacement key fob mats
View attachment 353945
Didn’t take long to swap them over ( after a bit of a mod to allow the ic chip to sit correctly )
Both keys work fine ….
After finding a German/Japanese Specialist garage about 1/2 a mile from my house, The car will now be going in for the ABS pump bleed , check and clear all or any fault codes, Headlight Adjustment , Tracking and MOT the first week of January.
Found them on Ebay
Just a little tip in respect of the radio…
DONT FORGET TO CONNECT THE BLOODY AERIAL OR YOU MAY SPEND AN HOUR TRYING TO GET THE RADIO OUT OF THE DASHBOARD BECAUSE YOU CANT FIND THE REMOVAL TOOLS
what a bloody numpty !!!!!
DONT FORGET TO CONNECT THE BLOODY AERIAL OR YOU MAY SPEND AN HOUR TRYING TO GET THE RADIO OUT OF THE DASHBOARD BECAUSE YOU CANT FIND THE REMOVAL TOOLS
what a bloody numpty !!!!!