I can categorically tell you where NOT to go to!!!
Replacement sill's for Z3 roadster
- Thread starter Foggy
- Start date
where and why?
Deserving of a post all on its own. All I can say at this moment is that there is one particular “business” that people go to at their peril.
For all who like Horror pictures, as it's almost Halloween ENJOY
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forgot this one
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Repairable. Thankfully.
yeah thats quite a good amount of rot, but can be repaired, this isnt a patch up repair by the look of it, i would be looking at chopping the whole lot out and doing a full sill replacement (im sure thats what you had in mind) i think you can still buy the complete inner sill
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2023
- Points
- 66
My quoted price was for outer sill, apologies if that wasn't clear, but if inners are available I may need those as well - only removing the outers will tell. I'll ask BMW when I'm over later in the week.
Are there any kinds of front mud flap or plastic protector available for this area that looks good and keeps rot at bay for a bit?
Are there any kinds of front mud flap or plastic protector available for this area that looks good and keeps rot at bay for a bit?
you can universal ones, and trim to fit, but i doubt if they will help as the sills have big holes across them, its just constant maintenance and good quality anti rust products in my opinion
Fully agree, and how I wish I had checked rhe sill's again after doing the work the first time, if anyone finds inner sill's would love to hear from them.
Failing that yes I would also be looking at at cutting out sills and fitting them I do NOT want a tin can patch up job.
Failing that yes I would also be looking at at cutting out sills and fitting them I do NOT want a tin can patch up job.
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
BMW parts Z3 E36 Z3 2.8 Single components for body-side frame
www.realoem.com
Wow, that is great ? I just had a look and if they have them in stock I will probably buy a pair, time to take off the nearside outer and see how bad that inner is. Now this is what a great Forum is really for
informed people helping out the not well informed. Thanks again
With disappointment this part is not available there are none in england and none in Germany and are discontinued by BMW
Interior left entrance OEM part No 41218413403
Many thanks for the try
Interior left entrance OEM part No 41218413403
Many thanks for the try
ahhhhh sorry buddy, i will have another nose around see if theres anything available.With disappointment this part is not available there are none in england and none in Germany and are discontinued by BMW
Interior left entrance OEM part No 41218413403
Wasn't there a post a couple years ago where spursfan chopped an almost rust free inner sill panel out of one of his scrappers for somebody - i seem to remember seeing a photo of said scrap car folded in half once the sill was removed.
I did not see the post but I was pointed in his direction by another member, sadly he is not chopping up another, but he still has a few bits of the sill mainly centre parts approx 60cm.
Actually, you DO want them patched.
I’ve repaired/replaced various outer/inner sills over the decades. Inner sills CANNOT be replaced economically unless its mates rates.
And 80+% of that sill is perfectly intact. So replacing it is utterly pointless.
To replace both inner sills completely it would be 4-6 days of solid work, (for one person), and needs quite a few specialised tools. Requires the full interior stripped too, as braces have to be welded in, or the car will fold when the inner sill is removed. Could probably bolt them in on a Z using the door hinge and hardtop mounting points. Time consuming compared to welding. Doors removed for access. It needs an awful lot of thinking about as it’s dead easy to stuff up. Then the doors don’t work. Believe me, I’ve seen it done. Fixing that? You have to cut through the new sill, fiddle with jacks and doors, weld a big plate across the chopped in half new sill and hope the MOT man doesn’t call the Police thinking it’s a Cut-n-Shut.
To repair those sills in situ, properly, would require cutting the rust out, I would suggest in 3 sections, as the middle isn’t as bad as the ends. I would NOT plate over the top of it, and if anyone even suggests it walk away. The sills are 2mm, all the repair sections on eBay are 1.5mm, so they’re actually no real use. 2mm mild steel sheet is readily available, I made corner repair sections for someone a while back, fairly sure I ditched the formers, may still have the oval punch though, . . Somewhere. It wasn’t difficult, no complex shape, the jacking point and lip I hammer formed.
I butt weld, I dislike overlaps, it’s slower and requires more care but I feel it gives a better finish.
The only tricky bit will be if there’s floor involvement. If there were, I’d simply cut the floor rot out and use a piece of angle to connect the floor to the inner sill vertical wall, then weld the repair panel to it. Much easier, and faster, to weld to new metal than rusty floor, especially with 2mm. Distortion is not much of a problem as it’s not seen. Myself I’d weld the floor in sections and planish it flat, but that’s just me.
Both sides, 2 days tops. It probably wouldn’t look original from underneath if the floor needed trimmed, but it would be solid as can be. Oil it to death and it’ll last forever. No need for bracing as most of the inner sill is still intact. Doors can stay on.
Not really that difficult for even just a half decent welder, not a challenge for someone experienced. I’d still want the seats out as it’s easier to fold the carpet out of the way, and the cables and battery +ve are there.
Do ask to see samples of his/her welds, and I’d advise it not be done gasless. It’s ok for fences and small repairs, but I wouldn’t use it on a body repair of that size. But again, that’s just me.
If replacement sills were available it would be super helpful just to sacrifice them for the parts you need. Repaired both mine and the better halfs car a few years ago. Mine wasnt so bad but hers took quite a bit of work around the jacking points. Hand fabricating these areas took alot of time.
This approach is just what I want to do, all I have to do is find a GOOD PAIR OF SILL's to obtain the bits I want to cut out and weld back into my car.
Thanks for some very interesting comment's and info, When I said tin cans I know that cars have been repaired n the past with can's - bodges and old sock's stuffed into main chases rails - I saw plenty when I had a garage back in the 70s. IF I cannot repair the car to a standard that I will accept then it will not be done. experience on older cars I have - they were far more simple in construction - as a once coded welder I consider myself half decent but I now only have a basic home garage and 80 years to cope with. You seem to have quality standards , shame you live so far from me I would probably be happy with your work. welders here seem to be content with 1 mm. to cover all sizes of repair .